Simplicity 2209 Lissette Unlined Jacket

Rarely do I lead with the back view of a garment, but that's where the action is on my version of Simplicity's 2209 jacket.

That little peplum and belt there? You like that? I drafted it myself--crazy how excited I am about such a simple and minimal tweak, but that's life in these parts.

Here is Simplicity's line drawing:

In this boxy jacket, there's not much curve to the back, and that spells trouble for my swayback. Instead of trying to make the princess seams more curved, I thought of adding a little pleated panel and a belt. 

Despite being maniacally pleased to have had and executed this idea, I must confess it's quite simple to do. I measured to find where my back waist curve begins, and split the back pattern piece, plus a seam allowance, at this point. Then I added a second panel for the peplum portion.

The peplum was altered for swayback, and extended by the amount that I wanted to pleat out in the center.

The little belt thingy I just made up as I went along. It's a tube, turned, pressed, topstitched and sewn into the princess seams.

Front view, showing standaway collar (not sold on this for me one bit), welt pockets and asymmetrical lap.

I needed small shoulder pads. Love this button, which I got in a two pound assortment from Fabric Mart. The fabric is Sophia double knit from House of Fabrics.

The second version is from a remnant of silk tweed. I had just enough for this short and very simple jacket, with no collar or pockets.

It's a nice enough jacket, but the fit isn't the best. I need a little more room in the bust, as the jacket kind of rearranges itself during wear. Also the armholes seem a bit low.

I used two large snaps to hold this jacket closed. I may add a button on top for decoration, or I might make a removable embellishment. Or I might just move on to the next thing, as is my wont!

Again there are tiny shoulder pads, custom drafted for this jacket.

A plain back this time, which worked out fine after all!