Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Simplicity 3833 Muslin in Progress

The fabric still has a chemical smell, but I'm moving forward with my muslin. When it's complete, I'll hang the garment (tunic or dress, to be determined) out in the breeze for a day or so. If it still smells after that, I'll chalk it up as an unwearable muslin.

This is a size 10 throughout, using the shorter length of view D with all the marked petite adjustments taken.  What I am seeing is:

  • Bust darts too low. That's a new one! It's likely more a result of my using a ponte knit rather than any uncharacteristic perkiness. In a woven fabric, I bet the darts would be in about the right position vertically, but still a bit too long.
  • Darts are puckering. I'm not going to take responsibility for this. It's the unholy chemical composition of the fabric that doesn't press and holds wrinkles.
  • The neckline fits over my head without a back zipper opening, so it goes without saying that I'll be skipping the zipper. 
  • I'd like a bit more width from the waistline to the hem, so I plan to re-sew those seams with 1/2" or 3/8" seam allowances rather than 5/8".
  • The shoulder seam needs to be trimmed by 5/8" (I do intend to add long sleeves).

Since I was thinking of reshaping the neckline to make it slightly more open, and to use a binding rather than finishing the neckline with facings (as provided by the pattern), I believe I am going to re-sew the shoulder seams a bit deeper as a means of bringing the bust darts up a little. Since I haven't yet cut out the sleeves, I can adjust the sleeve cap for less height to correspond to this adjustment.

I'm not wild about the muddy, grayed-out color of this fabric (or much of anything else about it, except that it is here), but it works really nicely with a great Ellen Tracy scarf I found a couple of years ago at the thrift store. The scarf is large and beautiful, in shades of purple-y chocolate, gold, teal, cream and deep magenta. The slight plummy hue of this taupe is a good foil for the scarf, so I hope the garment will be wearable in the end.


  1. Thanks for your detailed comments about your muslin. I'm thinking of making this dress too, and your photos and thoughts are very helpful. I think that your muslin will be absolutely wearable!

  2. I have this pattern & I have not tried it. Your muslin is awesome! Thanks for your post.

  3. This is great! Lucky you that you get to skip the zipper opening. Have you done swayback adjustments before on clothes you've sewn? I'm wondering if you might need a little one. I'm seeing a little bit of extra fabric (the wrinkles) just above your bum. You should also upload it to our Flickr pool!